Southward Bound

We landed in Christchurch on 17th Aug and expected to depart for Antarctica two days later. Unfortunately, due to bad weather and damage to the ice runway, we received daily notifications that our flight was delayed 24 hours. This meant we were perpetually undergoing PCR covid testing (the old-school brain-swab variety....yay) so that we would have a negative test result 48 hours prior to potential departure. We were told that if we tested positive at any point we would not be able to go to Antarctica. Overall, this made our Christchurch hotel stay quite miserable. We were confined to our rooms, and could only leave to pick up takeout food. Twelve days of hotel quarantine, rich takeout food, and zero exercise was not very pleasant.... but it was all worth it!

On Sunday the 28th August at 9:30 am we got confirmation that there was a weather window suitable for us to depart that day! A shuttle bus picked us up from the hotel, and transported us to the USAP (United States Antarctic Program) airport. The check-in process was unlike the regular airport check-in process. Uniformed air-force personnel weighed and x-rayed our bags, and a sniffer-dog gave them a once over. Overall, the process was MUCH easier than any other airport I have ever gone to.

We handed over our bags, which included our equipment as well as a "boomerang" bag which contained everything we would need to survive a few more days in Christchurch on the off-chance we would take-off, but need to turn around if the weather changed. If this happens, they would not unload all of the bags - only the boomerang bags.

Next they gave us our boarding cards, which consisted of laminated tags that we had to wear around our necks. I have to say, I felt a little bit like livestock headed for auction!

At around 2pm, it was time to board. All passengers (~30) were required to wear our ECW (extreme weather gear) before boarding the flight. We were shuffled onto another bus (it was a tight squeeze in our puffy clothing) which then drove us onto the runway, pulling-up next to the giant C17 plane.

The inside of the C17 was amazing! There was so much going on. In the center on the plane, the luggage and supplies were loaded and battened down.

My seat was right at the back of the plane, so I got to watch the air-force personnel load the crates.

The crate directly in front of my seat was loaded with “Freshies” – fresh fruit and veg. There are ~200 people who “overwintered” in Antarctica, and they haven’t had a shipment of fresh food since February! So, this crate is very important for them!

Two freshies.

Along the edges of the plane were the passenger seats. Our carry-on luggage was restricted to one bag which would fit underneath our seats. Our safety-brief was quite funny and if my video manages to upload – I recommend listening to it! Next, the doors were shut and it was time for take-off.

The take-off was relatively smooth – but very loud. We were all supplied with earplugs prior to take off, and they were very necessary!

When we reached cruising altitude, we were able to walk around on the plane. There were only two windows, both located at the back, next to our seats. They were quite small, so passengers had to queue to have a look out!

It wasn’t long before we were flying over open ocean

But this quickly turned to cloud

About 3.5 hours into the flight, we had our first view of the sea ice! However, as the daylight was dwindling, it was hard to get a clear image. However, you can see here the giant cracks!

30 mins later, we were flying over the Trans-Antarctic Mountains, specifically the Scott Coast Range. And wow, were they stunning.

As the sun set in the distance, they became more and more beautiful.

When the pilot announced that we were coming in for landing, you could feel the energy and excitement of everyone onboard! We were buzzing!

The landing was as smooth as the take-off (I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a little worried about the runway damage). When we finished taxiing, they opened the rear door and we finally saw the ice!

I wish I could fully explain what it felt like! It was amazing. We were hit with a wall of cold air as soon as the door cracked open. In the glow of the interior lights we could make out the ice runway. In the darkness, we could see the headlights of the approaching forklift coming to unload the cargo. The tires on this machine were giant!

Then it was time to deplane!

When I stepped onto the ice, it was quite disorienting! The engines of the C17 were roaring, everything in the distance was pitch dark, but we were simultaneously blinded by the plane lights. Wearing all of the bulky ECW gear and goggles, it was hard to move around and see everything.../anything! Meanwhile, the air-force team were shouting and corralling us to keep moving! They were in a hurry to unload and get going again, returning to New Zealand.

They told us not to stop and take photos...as you can see, we listened.

Into the darkness, the long line of little red passengers disappeared! I was at the back of the cue and was rushing to keep up! A combination of little legs, big boots and heavy bags made it harder than it sounds!

At the end appeared the monster: “Ivan the Terra Bus”!

We all packed in like sardines and began the 1-hour journey from the airfield to McMurdo research station.

We made a quick stop en route at Scott Base (which is the Kiwi Research Station) to drop off a passenger. The windows of the bus were frozen over for the entire journey so there wasn’t much to see in the darkness. Out of the front windscreen though I could see the passing of flags – the only markers for the driver to follow and guide us. Driving on an ice sheet is treacherous due to the presence of crevasses, and so we must always stick to the flagged route for safety.

Finally, we made it to McMurdo! It was late on a Sunday night when we arrived, andso unfortunately there were no workers available to transport our luggage from the airfield to the station. That meant no clean clothes or toothbrushes until tomorrow afternoon. More unfortunately for me, that also meant no glasses or contact lenses – and thus I was blind for the beginning of the next day! Not to worry! We got off the bus, shuffled inside to the galley where we received a quick welcome brief from the station manager, and then it was off to bed. The berthing buildings were wonderful and warm, and I am sharing a nice room with Lila. What a day.

And so the adventure begins!